good evening. where did you surf today? a pretty fun 3′ south swell with perfect trade winds making good conditions everywhere. it’s been a while since i went to big rights so big rights it was. it wasn’t really big rights today, it was more like medium rights. but super fun. had a bunch of guys out but i don’t mind when big rights is crowded. because everybody takes turns catching waves out there. wait, don’t believe that. not if ronnie yamada is out. he catches everything. haha. just joking ronnie… i had a fun session but kind of felt bad when i came in. why? because i accidently dropped in on kyle on my last wave. i had to come in so i took off on a wave and didn’t look back. i knew somebody was behind me but i didn’t care. well, until i saw kyle… sorry kyle.. i owe you one… or two.. but hey, checked the forecast and back to back to back south swells on the way. nothing huge but fun surf for a while. my friends been asking me why i haven’t been shooting recently. my answer. because i’m a surfer… get it? haha.. i think that’s funny because everybody rather see me taking photos rather than taking the waves… when i get a little burnt out, i’ll bust out my camera. but until then, go easy…

BUSTED!!! imagine being a pervert like that guy and getting caught? i wonder what his wife will say when she sees this photo? or his kids? or maybe his boyfriend???? what an idiot. if that was my friend, i would kick him in the nuts…. well, if he even had any….
**got an email from gerry from sagana resort….

he says cloud 9 has been smoking so far this year…. shit, i wish i were there…. uncrowded perfect barrels? ahhh…..

yeah, i’ve been there and done this. after leaving cloud 9, i always tell myself that i had enough. but after seeing photos like this, i didn’t get enough. i want more and more….

check out crowded rock island. packed yeah? haha.. freakin nobody out!! ahh…. i have to go because i’m starting to feel sick…. thanks gerry….

good morning. 6:10am wednesday morning. wow, i had to look twice when i checked the waves. it’s packed!!! i’ve never seen so many people out this early in the morning before. 23 surfers out at rockpiles, 30+ out at bowls, and over 50+ at the park. crazy…. and you know what? the waves aren’t even that big. it looks smaller than yesterday afternoon… i see only one chest high set in the last 20min. but maybe it’s the low tide. i figure when the tide turns, the waves should get bigger and more consistent. i want to surf but not with all that guys out. maybe wait till everybody goes to work. or did everybody call in sick today? yeah, that’s hawaiian style. if the waves are up, nobody shows up to work…. the tell their bosses they came down with a cold and show up to work the next day with a nice tan and a big smile on their faces. come on… anyway, like holli says, “what ever works”…..

went to hanaki last night. do you know where that is? it’s in manoa market place and has all you can eat japanese food for $20/each. sashimi, poke, crab, tempura, sushi, desert, and pretty much everything you can imagine. i think when i go there, they lose money….

why? because i eat about 4 plates of crab, and all the other expensive stuff. no rice or starch. save that for the kids…. i ate enough crab to last me a while. thanks for dinner mom….
**had the two girls in front of the camera last week at bowls during the surf into summer contest. classic stuff.. check it out…. oh, i asked kelia to say a message to her fans. here it is “never take life for granted because you never know when it can be taken away from you. so live life to the fullest.” huh? when i was a teenager, my message next to my name in my high school yearbook was “drop the books and party”…. are you sure we’re related? haha…

good evening. checked the waves this morning and right before i left my house, i seen ants marching out to bowls and ala moana park. i guess the news was out on this new south swell. it was packed with surfers so i headed to diamond head. thank goodness for the road construction there so it kept surfers away. not me. i just pulled my car into the lookout and bummed out some tourist trying to stop for a photo. parked my car, and paddled out to lighthouse where it was firing… super good waves with a super good vibe… no longboarders, no drop ins, and no tourist. i had an awesome session….
**waves this evening came up even more. seen some solid overhead sets at bowls and the park. know what that means… yeah, big rights tomorrow…. see ya…

jeannie chesser is the bomb. super cool, rips, and doesn’t take shit. i’ve known her since i started surfing. she’s one of the best surfboard airbrush designers in the world. she’s battling cancer and has such a positive attitude about it. always smiling and enjoying life…. see her in the water, better not drop in…. check out jeannie’s website by CLICKING HERE….

and horay!!! obama wins!!! hillary clinton finally gave up and went home. obama made history for being the first black to lead the democratic party. and also made history for being the first person out of hawaii to almost lead our country. i said almost. one more obstacle but if obama becomes president, he told me that he’s going to start surfing… haha.. just joking….

and last, i called my travel agent today to book my ticket to japan. she told me it costs $1,269. what???? are you kidding??? so i came home and tried to figure out how i was going to get there. problem solved…. just call me “rocket man”….