Crash landing:  OMG, Abunai!!!

Good morning 3:40am.
North shore 4-6′ with bigger sets and good.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds back at 20mph.
Sunny, warm, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

It’s really cool to see surfers getting better and better.  I’ve been surfing with Takahata-san for 8 years and every time he comes to Hawaii, his surfing is up another level.  And by the time he leaves, it’s up even another level.  That makes me so happy!  

We went for some shave ice at the old Waiola Store.  This store has been here for 65 years.

There is a sign “Uncle doesn’t mark up too much, so please don’t steal.”  So sad that Uncle even has to make this sign.  Please don’t shoplift because if you do, prices will go much higher.

With these recent light winds, Diamond Head has been beautiful.  Head high waves everyday and very long rides.  The winter season is here so expect more and more of these clean days.

I’ve been eating fresh fish every single day.  Sashimi style, carpaccio style, steamed style, and baked style.  Each meal will cost hundreds of dollars in a restaurant so it’s very rewarding to eat what you catch.  

And it’s so cool to see your nephews hunting, catching, cleaning, and cooking fresh fish.  Seth, Benji, and Joshua are the coolest kids in the world.  And they surf pretty good too.  Haha.

Yesterday once more:  The beautiful afternoon session at Ala Moana.  Satoshi-san surfing in Hawaii for the first time!  

First time Hawaii, first time surfing here, and enjoying every ride.

Kayoko-san with the great balance.  Long rides and looking so good!

Great session, nice rides, and lots of smiles!