Round 1: Waist to chest high Bowls. Perfect conditions. Surfer Kawika and photographer Brady. Connecting soon.

A day at Cliffs…

Good morning 3:20am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and fun.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Ala Moana was almost flat this morning so I took the girls to somewhere very challenging.  Overhead, powerful, strong current, and sharp rocks.  One of the girls got stuck on the rocks, the other one thought she was going to die.  It’s days like this you learn the most.  We’re not learning about doing cutbacks and off the lips.  We’re learning how to stay calm, stay calm, and stay calm.  Today was the perfect day for that.

When you see kids learning things like this at a very young age, it’s pretty cool.  My Grandpa taught us the same way and I’m hoping Mateus will find something he loves to do.  

Mateus loves putting together puzzles and floor installation is similar to a puzzle.  That’s probably why he enjoyed it so much.

My Grandpa was also a principal so he always stressed to us how important education was.  Now it’s my duty to stress to the kids how important education is.  Taking Mateus to the University of Hawaii made him want to go to college.  I hope it happens.

I’m not scared of big waves or big sharks.  But I’m scared of little needles.  OUCH!