good evening. gosh, can you believe i surfed for 4 hours this morning at bowls? rode a longboard and ended up stand up paddle board surfing. good workout and good fun. the waves were clean in the beginning, then a little windy, then super clean again. one surfer out, then 4, then it was only us. these are the times i’m so happy to live in town because if i woke up in the country with the bad weather and waves, i would just go back to sleep. but it’s hard to go back to sleep in town when the waves are fun and the sun is out. i wonder how tomorrow will be but no matter if i stay in town, or go to the north shore, i’m having fun surfing. hope you do too….

wanted to thank kitajima-san for bringing me this present from ishigaki, japan. this is special sugar made from sugar cane. i’m going to drop one in my hot tea right now….
**10 years ago, i use to complain about every little thing. like “the waves suck”, “how could you do that”, “my beer is warm”, or “my car is getting old”. now days, i hardly complain about anything. why?

because my little complaints are stupid compared to others around this world. there are many americans on the front line fighting for my freedom, many separated from their loved ones, and many young men dying every single day. remember that we’re still in a war that seems to have no end. if anybody should be complaining, it should be them….

and the 80,000+ people that died in china after that big earthquake. i feel for those families…. so the next time you complain about something so small, get over it. i see people in restaurants complaining about little things like food being late or water in their cups not being filled to the top. it kind of makes me sick to my stomach. i wish we could all appreciate our lives more, think positive, and just be happy. life is just too short….

4:45pm. Rain Rain Rain…. Samui….

good morning. 6:30am this warm monday morning. gosh, it was the first time in months that i didn’t need a blanket. is hawaii back to normal? hope so. well, the waves are still big on the north shore. i saw a couple 6-8′ perfect barrels at pipe. i bet sunset and haleiwa are pretty good too. town is small but looking fun. the winds look good everywhere but might turn onshore by mid morning. it’s overcast again but the weather report says it should be clearing up this week. the suns haven’t been out for a while so i’m getting pretty white. everybody is. i’m going surfing. have a nice day!! oh, i see a big storm going through the north shore right now. the sky is black and the wind just turned weird. yuck…

norihiko “matchi” nakayama is one of the first guys i met when i went to japan. nice, kind, cool, funny, and respectful are some of his best traits. everybody likes matchi and i consider him family to me. we grew up surfing with each other for the past 17 years and have thousands of memories. i have some photos on the wall in my house and you have to be one of my good friends to be up there. why? because i have to look at your ass every single day.. haha… matchi is up there and this isn’t the only photo with him in. 1994 japan….

i shot this photo 2 years ago when i first started shooting. when i was cleaning out my computer, i almost threw it away. i’m glad i didn’t because this one is a keeper…
**well, great news for all you matchi fans. matchi shapes, surfs, and knows how to have a good time. he just started a blog and i’ll be checking it everyday. yeah matchi!! ganbatte!! see you soon in shikoku….
**CLICK HERE FOR MATCHI BLOG….

and last, this is the reason i’m going to japan. the TSSC users cup is happening sunday, april 5th in shikoku. i’m going with tony and seth moniz. we’re doing a surf school on saturday, april 4th so make reservations fast because space is limited…. more info BY CLICKING HERE ON GO-NAMINORI.COM….