Wednesday October30日 2024年

This is it: The Cutback

The trade winds came back but were very light.  That made the conditions absolutely perfect all day long.

Ogura-san was a little nervous before we paddled out this morning but soon after this first beautiful ride, the nervousness turned into happiness.

I think she caught over 20 long rides this morning.  She wanted to surf waist high waves so I told her it was waist high today.  I lied.  Haha.  

Each wave Ogura-san’s surfing was getting better and better.  Then the photos started to really bring out how happy she was.  This is how everybody should be enjoying the ocean…

Round 2 we went out practicing the cutback.  Perfect waves and seemed like it was getting bigger.  

I don’t know anywhere else in the world where you can surf perfect off shore waves like this everyday.  Uncrowded, warm water, easy access, and as blue you will ever see.  

Riding a longer board and waiting way outside for the set of the day.  This is how you do it!

After all these years, I can no longer ride in front of Hashimoto-san anymore.  His surfing level got so high that I will only be in his way.  

So I shoot photos from behind and try to keep up with his speed.  

Then I wait for this cutback!  We spent a week working on this maneuver so we can get a good photo.  This is it!

Let’s Claim it!

Round 2 at Bowls was hot and humid.  Hashimoto-san looking cool as he cools off.

A strong man that can make a lot of spray.

Bowls lefts to ourselves.  Zero stress surf session.

Pushing the tail and creating spray.

Perfect lefts.

And perfect rights.

We scored!  Hashimoto-san was the happiest surfer in the world!

September 12, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Yesterday’s set of the morning.  Clean and perfect.

Glassy conditions and no clouds in the sky.  Winter weather starts now!

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Trade winds and rainbows back at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!