Leave and Appreciate

It was a very beautiful morning again.  Rio-san on more amazing rides!  This is the best way to start off a day here in Hawaii.  

We’ve been experimenting with 8’0’s and 7’6’s.  These surfboards are made for big waves and don’t turn that easily, but the girls are turning them pretty easily.  

You have to have a lot of power and proper technique to be able to put a big board on the rail like this.  It doesn’t get any better than this.

Round 2 at Diamond Head.  This is a very hard spot to surf and the only way you will figure this wave out is by experience.  The more you surf it, the more you will learn.  I’ve been surfing out there for 40 years and still learning.  

I saw a surfer walk up the cliff with his backpack, surfboard, and a big cut on his left elbow.  It was bleeding a lot and hope he was ok.

My little Princess is exploring mainland America.  She is learning so many things about life and nature.  She’s been sending me photos of things you will never see here in Hawaii.  A wild rabbit?  Cool!

She said there are wild berries everywhere.  OMG, these berries are very expensive at a Whole Foods here in Hawaii.

So she picked some wild blueberries, and decided to bake something.

It’s cool how kids can travel and learn such things.  I’ve always encouraged kids to leave Hawaii so they can really appreciate Hawaii.  My little Princess is learning that right now and I’m so happy for that.

August 13, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Dawn Patrol continues…

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

The Last 40 Years

We paddled out in the dark this morning.  The days are getting shorter and shorter because a week ago, it was a lot more lighted at this time.

Rio san riding into the golden sunrise.

I still can’t believe we went to the same high school at the same time.  Such a small world with big coincidences.  And all these years later, we are surfing together!

Everyday is a learning experience and everyday is a better photo.

A perfect bottom turn on the biggest set of the day.

Round 2 at Diamond Head.  Much better than yesterday according to the locals.  One of the guys asked me how long I was surfing out there.  I did the math in my head and it turns out I’ve been surfing Diamond Head for the past 40 years.  That’s crazy!

The end of the ride as me and the birds watching the action.  Smaller waves tomorrow but excellent conditions.  Goodnight…