I never have high expectations for a South swell but this morning was a surprise.  A tiny swell perfectly timed for Inoue-san.  

Watching guys getting better and better each wave is rewarding.  Inoue-san caught about 20 long waves progressing each one.  Cool style!

It was a beautiful morning at Bowls.

Nobody thought there would be waves this morning so it was uncrowded.  Scott was surfing the rights all to himself.

Grandma Jo is 77 years old and loving life.

If it weren’t for foiling, I would have never met Big Mike.  The coolest big wave charger both on a surfboard and foil board.

I went home, turned on the A/C, put my head down on the sofa for a nap, then I saw my new board leaning against the wall.  I turned off the A/C, splashed water on my face, waxed up one of the boards, and jumped on Mayuki.  Today I thought I’d spoil myself.  

It’s been a few months since I had some alone time.  And when I’m alone, there is nowhere else I’d rather be.  Searching for the perfect wave.

I passed by Rockpiles and saw some perfect chest high waves.  I secured the anchor, jumped in, and went to join the boys.

Only a few locals out so we were taking turns.  This was my turn and I was so excited to ride this amazing wave!

I didn’t have a leash so I was just cruising on the waves I caught.  Felt great so far and can’t wait to push it full throttle!  Thank you boys for sharing the waves in that tight lineup.  I came home, turned on the A/C, and took a nap with a big smile…

When I first started to free dive, I use to hope the waves were flat everyday.  My job at the time was to surf so if there were waves, I’d have to go surf.  So waking up in the morning and seeing flat conditions was a treat sometimes.  Now, it’s the same feeling.  One of the flat days, it was pouring rain but we took the challenge.

When ever I’m diving, I always swim around with my spear exposed on the surface like this.  This helps my dive partners to locate me, and more importantly, this prevents me from getting run over by other boats.  I teach everybody to dive like this.

It could be windy and stormy but once you go underwater, it’s very calm.  And though my experience, diving without the sun is better because the wildlife have a harder time seeing you.  

These are the smartest creatures in the ocean.  Photos by Mighty Mouse.

Back in the day:  I took the boys out to tako hunt.  They ended up having a tako fight.  Gen and Joshua acting like the kids they were.  And I’m pretty sure they still do it till this day.  Haha.

Surf your dream…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!