Yesterday once more: Eddie Would Go.

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

The girls were swimming in from Bowls this morning.  All of a sudden, this Hawaiian Monk Seal appears from the side and was trying to race the girls to the beach.  Of course the Monk Seal won.  This was a very rare and lucky encounter.

On this particular wave, I was shooting from the top of the wave yelling “go left!”  Then the bottom turn starts as she goes left.

I’m still at the top of the wave watching her pass by.  Usually this will be the last photo I’d get but since I had room, I decided to ride the wave so I paddled hard.

I was going down the wave behind still pointing my camera.  This is my favorite angel because you can see exactly where she’s going.

Then she starts the cutback and suddenly realizes I was riding on the bottom of the wave.  She freaked out and said “where did you come from?”  Then fell.  Haha.

Round 2 Diamond Head all alone.  Riding sets from the very outside just like how the locals do it.  That’s major progression this week!

Flashback April:  Blue Okinawa…

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!