good morning. 6:30am on this chilly north wind morning. gosh, feeling more like winter now. i actually used a blanket last night. it’s chilly but i like it. but it’s just a little harder to get up. still got a solid north swell out in the country. the conditions look much better than yesterday. town is flat and the water out at bowls looks dirty again from all that rain last night. so far, no sewage spills but i’m keeping an eye on the news. anyway, the waves suck today so i’m going to finish up fixing my boat. then i might have to in the water to test it out. with my speargun. haha. oh, i was driving by kahala mall yesterday and they were unloading christmas trees. gosh, don’t you love that smell? can’t wait to get mine… in hawaii, christmas is the happiest time of the year. only 35 days away… ho ho ho, merry christmas…..

on our stop over in cebu, hayato, kazuya, and u-ske tried their luck at the lottery there. seemed like everybody was doing it….

hayato was a winner!!! i think he won a dollar or something. but a dollar in the philippines is like 20 bucks to us. it can go a long way… imagine winning a million dollar lottery in hawaii or japan? wait. forget it. i don’t want anything to do with millions of dollars. i seen how money can change people. i was watching a special the other day about the lifestyle of past lottery winners. it was all about drugs, fake friends, and even suicide. a normal person getting millions of dollars all of a sudden will change their lives forever. whether they like it or not. money is evil… i like my life now…. but if you want to give me a million dollars, here is my account number: 867-5309…. just joking… have a nice day…
**haleiwa pro cancelled today. too small and junky. huge swell coming this weekend so expect the contest to finish with a bang!!! bang!!!

good evening. i woke up and my leg was hurting so i went to get it checked out. my doctor told me that some keflex pulvule should make the infection go away so i’m taking 4 a day. don’t know what that is but “what ever works”…. supposed to stay out of the water but i jumped in my friends pool this evening to tune up my guns. i think the chemicals in the pool cleaned my cuts out. i’m still wondering how it got infected? was it the ocean? or was it nuuanu stream? umm… anyway, i have confidence in my doctor so it should be better in a few days…. that’s what he said…

i was running around this morning looking for the broken seals i needed for my. finally found it and with my brothers help, got the motor back together. i also fixed the hole in the hull with some surfboard resin and fiberglass. looking good. just have to sand and paint and i’m ready to rock again. also changed oil in my car. felt like being a mechanic today. got to wash my hands and clothes….

with this rain we’ve been having, there’s rainbows everywhere you look. right after i took this picture, the sky turned black and started to storm. it’s still storming right now. hope no sewage spills tonight….

check out my dinner last night. i went down to kim chee II to get this restaurant special plate. i almost ate all of this including 2 bowls of rice. i’m still full and still smell like kim chee…

i took this photo last summer out at big rights. this guy was taking off so i wanted to get him going left. then he turned right and tried to pull in from behind the barrel. i still don’t know why he went right. for the photo? hope not because i don’t know who he is and he will probably never ever see this photo. but i thought it looks cool….

picture of the week. according to a united nations report published in october, 2007, 3 million people die annually in developing countries from water-borne diseases. this girl was drinking out of a pipe in uganda right after that report was published. gosh, that’s sad….

good morning. 6:30am on this cloudy monday morning. big north/east swell. bumpy conditions on the north shore. bad weather on the way. heard japan was freezing cold yesterday so expect a huge swell heading to hawaii by next week. town is back to normal, flat. going to work on my boat today and hopefully get it ready for surf/dive trips. once again, i feel so fresh from diving yesterday. but not so fresh after inhaling fiberglass and resin today. yuck… anyway, have a nice day…

this nuts ass v-8 vw bug lives right near my house. i can hear it coming down my street every time he drives it. i want it….

got some really wide tires in the back. the guy says when he steps on the gas a little, the tires spin out… that’s power. i want it…

it’s the only one on this island. i want it….

and last. ikai’ka in japan. can’t wait to see them live next year. maybe i’ll practice hula dancing and i can dance a song for them… that would be cool… o mau kau kau….

gosh, get this. i got a small cut on my foot last week. the dam thing won’t heal. i think the dirty water infected it and it hurts pretty bad. it was doing fin until yesterday but my fins kept on rubbing on it yesterday and made it worst. i couldn’t feel anything when i was diving but when i got home, itai… might have to head to the hospital today…