Round 1:  Very good barreling Bowls.  Clean water, clean conditions, and orange sunrise.

Inaba-san out there early getting some good waves.

Old school JPSA pro surfer.  And still ripping!

Barak on the clean ones.

Clarence was ripping today.  

Lance Hookano has been surfing everyday.  Good to see him so happy and healthy.

Bruce styling on the bottom turn.

OMG, it’s mid-October already!  The best summer ever continues…

The dawn patrol turn.

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

It’s been absolutely beautiful recently.  So much wildlife in the lineup.  I see at least 5 turtles a day.  Sharks, monk seals, rays, and lots of fish too.

This 100lbs. GT swam right under me twice this week.  That fish is so big that it looks like a shark!

Today round 1:  Chest high sets and perfect conditions.  Rocky has been reading the ocean well and is finding good waves.

Surfing smooth and having fun.

And dodging surfers that are in her way.  Two years ago she would have ran over that surfer.  But now, she calmly adjusts her line and goes around.

So stoked to surf with Inaba-san today!  I was surprised to see him out in the dark this morning.

And I was stoked to see him still ripping!  We use to compete in the JPSA back in the early 1990’s.  Now his son Reo surfs competes with my nephews.  That’s so cool.

Some people take surfing too seriously these days.  But surfing supposed to be fun like this.  Look at that Ayaka-san smile!

Thank you Neal for the photos.  Super stoked to connect with you for the past 30 years.

Life at Bowls…