If you surfed in Hawaii this summer, you probably have had the best sessions ever.  Since June, the waves have been nonstop.  Sometimes crowded, and sometimes not.  This is one of the most crowded spots on the island but I’m guessing everybody was surfed out this day.  Hashimoto-san was in the right place at the right time.  

Every surfer dreams of a session like this.  Head high, perfect point right, warm water, blue sky, no wetsuit, and nobody.  It doesn’t get any better than this.

Hashimoto-san will probably never forget this session for the rest of his life.  I won’t either.

So many unridden waves.  Timing is everything.

I want to welcome my brand new baby Moniz grand niece!  She is so cute!  The family continues to grow and grow!

Yesterday once more:  Early morning Barak at Bowls.

Sometimes there were some really good barrels.

Afternoon perfection at Impossibles.

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana overhead sets and good.
Diamond Head overhead and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Rain, sun, clouds, and hurricane weather.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

This catagory 4 Hurricane Lowell course is very rare.  So rare that it’s been 34 years since a similar course like this.  That was when Hurricane Iniki destroyed Kauai.   I hope this one is ok.

Round 1:  The hurricane is sending us a weird south swell.  The direction is not normal at all.  You have to choose the right wave at Bowls just like how Mike Ho did on this one.

I drove out to Hawaii Kai to check out this pop up event at Koko Head.  It’s nice to see so many people supporting local businesses.

Round 2: OMG, much bigger than this morning.  We surfed somewhere else because this spot that isn’t usually good was unusually excellent!  It reminded me of the spot in Bali called “impossibles.”  The longest and most perfect left point break.

Not too many surfers were out because it’s usually a beginner spot.  This afternoon was the opposite.  I have never seen it this perfect before.  Mighty Mouse taking off on a good one.

Hashimoto-san caught some of the best lefts of his life.  It kept going, going, and going.

I caught a wave and did 8 turns on it.  This was turn number 3 of 8.  Tomorrow should be the biggest day of the swell so I’m so excited!