Round 1: Overhead and good! The swell has arrived!!!

Back in the day:  Go-Naminori boat trip in Mentawai.  Reika Noro off the lip…

Good morning 3:20am.
South swell arrived!
Ala Moana head high sets and good.
Diamond Head overhead and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I use to hire people to come and fix things when it broke.  Not anymore.  Now I find it challenging to troubleshoot a problem and fix it myself.  It’s very rewarding, and very inexpensive.  I just saved another $300 today as my washer is working like it’s brand new again.

My favorite way to cook a ribeye steak is to soak it in olive oil, a little salt and pepper, some garlic, and fresh rosemary from the garden.

I found this photo on an old hard drive.  I can’t figure where this wave was???  Pipeline?  Teahupo’o?  Fiji?  Padang?  Where ever it was, that wave was pretty thick looking.  I just remember that board being a magic 6’8 that I took around the world with me.  

I went to the Banyaks twice.  The first time was when it wasn’t even called the Banyaks.  It was still newly discovered and nobody was there except for our boat.  The second time there were 2 other boats and one surf camp.  It was getting a little crowded for the price you pay and the time it takes to get there.  Now, I heard there are 6 boats circling the Banyaks and many surf camps.  You will probably never see a photo like this ever again.  Times have changed…