omg, the waves were so good today at bowls. perfect lefts, little crowd, sunny, offshore, and good surfing. good to jump in the water with all my friends enjoying a super sunny day in hawaii.

went to eat some taiwan nabe last night with some friends. looks delicious yeah?

then after we got kicked out for staying past the 1.5 hour limit, we went outside to the parking lot to finish up the beers. then it started to rain so we took shelter outside kozo sushi. we ended up finishing the 15 beers we took and had a great time. good talk, good time, and good friends. to Shinomiya-san and Ryo, have a great trip back to japan. had fun eating last night and fun surfing today. see you soon!

and check out this evenings pipeline sunset. it might look flat now, but tomorrow will be rising to 8′ solid.

Hot Hawaiian Day!

Daisuke is the best surfboard ding repair guy in hawaii. he can do everything! from fixing all my boards, my friends boards, to shaping, to glassing, to fixing my boat, and to reviving old surfboards. take this surfboard for example. this is Yuki-san’s magic board (previously owned by Kelia Moniz). Kelia isn’t the best at taking care of stuff so the board was pretty scratched up. i took it to Daisuke’s house a week ago, he worked on it for hours, fixed what had to be fixed, sanded what had to be sanded, took off the wax, and polished the whole board. gosh, it looks brand new now!

then a few weeks ago, i was going through my surfboard collection and took out a surfboard my friend gave to me about 20 years ago. it was dung up, dirty, and ugly. Daisuke sanded it, put a new coat of resin on it, sanded it, and polished it. this board from the 1960’s is alive again!

you would freak on how heavy this board is. i can’t believe people use to actually ride these things.

Bing Surfboards from the 60’s are collectors items. i bet i could auction this board for over $5,000 now. but sorry, it’s not for sale because i want to ride it.

see the hole in the fin? know what that’s for? back in the old days, surfers use to tie a rope and bungie cord to the fin and attach it to their ankles. these days, we call it a leash.

one antique surfboard with a lot of stories, and one world champions surfboard with a lot of stories too. both are priceless!
thank you Daisuke! you’re the best!