Wow! Big wave!
Good morning 5:30am.
North shore 2-3′ and clean.
South shore chest high and perfect.
No wind so perfect conditions everywhere.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing and going airport.
Have a wonderful day!

Now at Diamond Head.
Still so good!

omg, yesterday was yet another perfect surfing day. i caught some really good waves at Bowls in the morning and i couldn’t believe how epic it was. all we talk about these days is our endless summer. more and more swells on the way and there is absolutely no stress in the lineup. so many people are just being cool and letting everybody catch waves. such a cool vibe!

after my morning session, went to Glenn Minami’s factory to pick up my new board. we worked together by comparing magic boards and this is the result. i can’t wait to try it! happy!

then i went to pick up Team Ina and we jumped on Mayuki to search for a perfect uncrowded wave.

i’m so happy we all have one thing in common: to enjoy the ocean to the fullest!

OMG! the waves were perfect and we had it all to ourselves! just taking turns riding wave after wave. check out Yuki-san’s overhead wave!! OMG, so good! this is like indonesia! why am i even going next week? haha. just joking.

Satoko is our amigo from Mexico. always brings fun and laughter to the party. a great person and a great surfer girl!

Katsura-san is a very important part to the perfect team. her hands are magic and can make a person feel 10 years younger in 10 minutes!

the wave of the day! Ina Would Go! OMG, Inaida-san caught his last wave and rode it perfectly. perfect style and big perfect wave! i was so stoked to surf such a magical secret spot yesterday with these wonderful people. it was a great experience for us all and a great way to enjoy an ice cold draft beer and sushi after.
the magical surf sessions roll on. my back is burnt, i can’t see because my eyes are sunburnt, i’m tired, my skin is dry, and there is a lot of water in my head. but hey, life rolls on! we should all enjoy each day like it is our last. see you in the water!