some photos from day 3 with the Iwata-san family. Mama did a great job again!
seeing photos of happy people after a great ride makes me really happy!
Papa surfed his best on the 3rd day too. i could see his muscles getting more use to the paddling each day. i’m sure by now he’s in japan feeling a lot stronger than before.
and Noriko-san on another great long wave. such a cool Doctor.
coming out of the water is a great feeling after a great surf session. peace and shaka! keep on surfing!
Monthly Archives: September 2014
Peace and Shaka
Aman: First Class
it’s been a really wild life for me. from traveling around the world on 25 hour dirty bus rides with chickens and locals, to flying first class on a sea plane getting dropped off on fantasy island. i love every experience.
looking back on all the photos i took, this room has to have been the best so far. this is at the luxury resort of Amawana deep in indonesia. i felt like a king for that week! got lonely at times but the monkeys kept me entertained. someday i hope to go back to visit my monkey friends. haha.
THE LAST SAMURAI DOCTOR?
surfing with Masamune-kun makes me so happy. he’s such a good kid with big dreams and a big smile.
his dream to become a doctor will come true. i just know it by talking to him and listening to his passion.
and he will be another doctor that surfs. a great life ahead!
i almost cried on the last day when i dropped him off at his hotel. i spent some good quality time with this kid.
thank you for the lei Masamune-kun. please study hard, surf hard, and remember to always follow your dreams. then maybe when i get older, you can be my doctor? haha. see you next year!