Yesterday @ Ala Moana.
The 1 minute 13 second ride!
The Longest Ride.
Amazing!
Good morning 6:30am.
South swell here!
Shoulder high sets at Ala Moana and growing.
Overhead by this afternoon.
Diamond Head will be solid 4′ by this afternoon.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny, some clouds, some showers, and big rainbows!
Surfing all day!
See you in the water!

Let’s catch the helicopter!

the last time i was in Wakayama, i couldn’t believe how expensive gas was! 1 gallon is 3.78 liters so that comes out to 657 yen per gallon or $6.50/gallon? omg!

i filled up my tank yesterday and it was $4.24/gallon. that’s only 112 yen per liter. huge difference!

pretty cool seeing this guy fishing out in the ocean all the time. this is called “hard core fishing” in hawaii. if his motor breaks, it’s so easy because he can just paddle in and even catch a wave. haha.

19 days straight of perfect waves. that’s what everybody’s been talking about in the water. i was gone for 7 of those days so it’s 12 days for me. and with another huge south swell coming tomorrow, this might be the longest days of south shore consistency ever. enjoy the rides!

5 years ago, it was a dream of mine to be able to do a headstand. after never saying never, i finally can do it!!! now my next dream is to do a headstand in the barrel! then i will probably die. haha.
never give up on yourself. if you think you can do it and imagine you can do it, then you can do it! follow your dreams!