Monthly Archives: September 2014

Eri Photo and Hashimoto Bail

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Eri-chan sent me some photos of our last trip. here we are filming in Taiji. like always, i have very mixed emotions when i come here.
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i can’t read japanese but i think this sign says “couples point?” haha.
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Naoka and i hanging out on the wall.
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this day was funny. if you could have seen Naoka’s face 35′ deep when he was trying to put the letter in the mailbox, you would have been cracking up! it was one of the funniest things i’ve ever seen!
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the day before i left hawaii to japan, i took Hashimoto-san out for a dawn patrol session. it was so beautiful! and it was so big!!!!
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early mornings are the best! i’m sure Hashimoto-san will remember this session.
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most of honolulu is sleeping, not me. i’m always up before sunrise getting ready for an awesome day!
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this day was huge so i taught Hashimoto-san how to bail his surfboard and dive under the wave. he did great on his first try. as i’m going over a solid overhead wave, i’m yelling “throw your surfboard to the side!!!”
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then as the wave breaks, i see him dive under the wave at the perfect timing.
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it’s unbelievable how i got this photo. i just stuck my camera underwater and took this. it’s a very dark place under water early in the morning when a huge waves is crashing over your head. Hashimoto-san survived and did a wonderful job! a great way to enjoy your hawaiian vacation! haha. i call this “a very big confidence builder.”

August 31, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report


OMG! Crazy!
Good morning 6:30am.
South shore swell continues.
Head high with overhead sets at Ala Moana with perfect conditions. Diamond Head bigger and clean.
Light off shore trade winds at 10mph.
Super sunny and warm.
Surfing 2 rounds.
Have a wonderful day!