GOOD MORNING: 6:30AM SURF REPORT!
North shore HUGE! Waimea Bay 20-25′ with some close out sets.
EDDIE AIKAU CONTEST ON!!!! START AT 8AM.
South shore head high and perfect! Ala Moana and Diamond excellent!
Light trade winds at 5mph.
Sunny and very warm.
Great surfing historic day!
Be safe and see you in the water.
CLICK HERE FOR LIVE EDDIE AIKAU AT WAIMEA BAY!

ok, the mega historic swell is coming! to tell you the truth, it might be too big for the Eddie!! omg! i predict it will be on for sure with possible standby mode in the morning as it peaks. probably closing out the bay. expect waves breaking on the roads, expect houses falling into the water, and expect a lot of nervous competitors. it’s here, this is the real deal!!!!!

super cool time with Kazubo-san and Takahashi-san. felt like i was in okinawa!

if you haven’t tried the Uni Shooters at Gaku, you don’t know what you’re missing.

and yes, the chefs special sashimi platter. thank you Maki-san for the photos.

had a super fun time with Goki-san this morning. the waves were so good! some head high sets and absolutely perfect conditions!

Goki-san caught so many good waves! always happy after an awesome session.

big hawaiian boy in hawaii. haha.

then went to pick up the cool family and ate a poke bowl for lunch.

checked out diamond head after and it was freaking perfect! head high and as good as diamond head gets. seen some whales on the outside so that made the day.

it’s on! Conner McGregor vs. Nate Dias on march 5th. i won’t miss that war!

this is Moku Manu on the east side of oahu. this cliff is 202′ high. that’s 62 meters! look good and you will see the wave breaking higher than the cliff. that’s how big and strong the last swell was. mother nature is incredible!

ok, keeping my eye on the next swell tomorrow and guess what? the swell might be too big!!! yeah, this is going to be a monster swell of the century and it’s going to hit at the perfect time tomorrow. i think waimea bay will be too big and closing out. it’s crazy that they canceled the contest 2 weeks ago because it’s too small, and might cancel the contest tomorrow if it’s too big. if i were the contest director, i would run the contest even if it’s too big. why? because these guys are watermen. they put their lives on the line to surf big waves. it’s the ultimate rush for these guys with the ultimate consequence. it’s the survival of the fittest. it’s extreme. this is what the guys live for. i hope Eddie Goes!

had a great time surfing with Yukari-san. so stoked to see her surf so perfectly.

and always the nice smile on the way out.

gosh, it was so beautiful yesterday.

Yukari-san caught so many waves! super powerful girl with amazing balance.

please enjoy the rest of your hawaiian trip! and keep on smiling.

ever ate at Goofy Cafe and Dine? i did! check out this appetizer.

and the sweet acai bowl.

and eggs benedict.

my favorite was the loco moco. enough for 2 people. i’m definitely going back there again!
check out:
Goofy Cafe and Dine in waikiki.
1831 Ala Moana Blvd
Ste 201
Honolulu, HI 96815
tel. (808) 943-0077
Hours
Mon 7:00 am – 11:00 pm
Tue 7:00 am – 11:00 pm
Wed 7:00 am – 11:00 pm
Thu 7:00 am – 11:00 pm
Fri 7:00 am – 11:00 pm
Sat 7:00 am – 11:00 pm
Sun 7:00 am – 11:00 pm

last, i keep on telling myself to slow my life down but keep on forgetting. so i’m going to wear this tshirt once a week to remind me. SLOW LIFE!