Another day, Another mermaid.
Good morning 4:30am.
North shore 1-3′ and clean.
South shore chest high and clean.
Offshore in the morning, onshore in the afternoon.
Sun, haze, clouds, rain, unpredictable.
Going super dawn patrol now!
Monthly Archives: March 2016
Surfing: Doctor vs. Dentist
omg, had a super fun time this morning with Doctor Murahashi-san and Dentist Fujimoto-san. both amazing people who love hawaii!!!
Fujimoto-san comes every year and only surfs in hawaii. pretty cool! seeing him getting better and better is awesome.
Fujimoto-san told me his office is 2 stories down in the basement with no windows, so coming to hawaii with this amazing view revives him. the feeling of freedom! thank you Fujimoto-san! see you again in golden week!
then Murahashi-san had his first ever surf session today. this was his first wave of his life and he was loving it!
when i downloaded these photos, i couldn’t stop laughing! the pure stoke in these guys faces says it all. they didn’t want to come in. haha.
then we had a wonderful dim sum lunch in chinatown with the whole family. very nice and kind people. 2 new kids so the family is growing and growing with future surfers. welcome to the surfing world Mei-chan and Kaito-kun!
then went to pick up my surf buddy Asayama-san this afternoon and had an awesome time. another full amazing day in the ocean!
wow, apple announced the iPhone SE. i can’t wait to get mine!
check out the weather forecast for the week. heavy rain?
heavy rain, heavy rainbows. i love walking out of my front door each morning and see this.
Is this a Safe World?
wow, had an awesome time with Akane-san yesterday afternoon. watching her catch such perfect waves! this girl has very good balance and very good sense. gosh, look at this photo good and look how amazing the weather has been.
Akane-san’s goal is to be able to surf by herself. and she’s almost there.
good ride equals good smile!
then went for a free dive. it’s hard to believe Akane-san couldn’t dive 1 meter before without panicking. now she is going way deeper and deeper. amazing!
i can be super tired, but i’ll never turn down a free dive. i’ll go down and up all day long if i had to. it makes me so relaxed, it makes me calm, and it makes me feel like i’m home.
i’d just go down slowly, lay on the bottom, and observe nature doing its thing. i swear i feel like falling asleep at times.
and on the way up, i feel so high.
seen some roy’s so grabbed my pole spear and caught dinner. if i had my spear gun with me, i could have taken home some mu’s too. next time.
heard about the american that got caught for trying to steal something in north korea? what the heck was he thinking????? north korea? what was he thinking????? now he’s asking for his life to be saved? going to spend 15 years in prison doing hard labor. that’s going to suck!
tears in court might help you in america, but not in a communist country like north korea. look at the guard on the side. he’s probably thinking “what were you thinking????”
and another bomb in turkey? omg, i really wanted to go there! if you think this world is safe, think again!