Monthly Archives: March 2016

Anywhere Anytime: No Excuses

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my new boards have been ready for pick up for the last 2 weeks. but been too busy to drive to wahiawa to grab them. today, i had a 2 hour break so i flew over to grab my new babies! can’t wait to try them out!
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i was watching the waves all day long. morning was super ugly and junky, but i knew the winds would turn offshore right after this cold front passed. then at 3pm, it happened!
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the waves started to clean up. cleaner and cleaner by the minute.
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next thing you know, it was barreling with some huge sets!!! i threw my boards in the truck, went to surf queen’s because i had a feeling. i knew the morning was ugly so most surfers went home. and when the winds turned around, it would be empty. and yup, that feeling was right. it had to be the most empty and perfect queen’s i’ve ever surfed. it was full on barreling! i got a nice barrel on my last wave and drove home pretty dam happy.
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know this girl? the hottest tennis player in the world. Maria Sharapova is the highest paid women’s athlete in the world. making about $30 million each year. not only because of her serve, but because of her complete package.
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anyway, she just failed a drug test. you know what that means? yes, bye bye sponsors.
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bye bye Porsche.
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bye bye Tag Heuer.
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and bye bye Nike. this poor girl just lost $30 million per year of sponsorships. ouch! a great learning experience for all you young kids out there trying to make it big. stay clean, train hard, and your dreams will come true. one mistake like this, your life will be over in a flash. it’s not worth taking the chance because eventually you will get caught. NO EXCUSES!!!

OMG! Score!!!!


South shore barreling right now!
Everywhere offshore and perfect!
So happy!

SUP: The Total Workout!

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flawless conditions yesterday morning. perfect waves and perfect rides.
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it’s amazing that Ken-san started SUP’ing only 5 years ago and Ayumi-san only 2 years ago. their level is pretty high, especially timing the waves. timing the waves usually takes the longest, but they have it down. check out Ken-san paddling into this perfect right hander.
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i got the best view because i was standing up too. nice bottom turn!
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Ken-san got so many great rides. super energetic and at a very high level in surfing already. he could be a pro in a few more years.
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as for me, i suck! i only did this a few times so i’m still learning. i have the timing down, but i’m having a hard time controlling such a huge board!!! i better practice more.
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are you kidding me??? only 2 years of surfing and taking off perfectly on waves like this?
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Ayumi-san caught some perfect waves yesterday. she said the biggest waves of her surfing career. she was so stoked! and so was i!
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look how big this wave is. and she rode it out perfectly.
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an awesome session with Ken-san and Ayumi-san. thank you for the wonderful memory. hope you enjoy the rest of your vacation in hawaii. and want to say hi and thank you to Tomoko-san for introducing this wonderful couple to me. We Are One!
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check out Chizu-san on a big set! beautiful surfing girl!
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after that long session, i felt my inner muscles hurt so much. i had to stretch out and it still hurts. hurts in a good way because i know my body had a great core workout. i’m going to try to do this more often. surf, yoga, SUP, and eat healthy. i’m not getting any younger right? haha.