met Watanabe-san a few years ago. a super cool surfer from Ishinomaki. been surfing every year with him and just have a blast. this year, he brought his nephew along for the ride.

Shunsuke-san on his first hawaiian wave. wave after wave, he kept on going and going. tired, but very happy.

you can’t find a super long wave like this in japan. so i kept on telling him, “ride it till the end and enjoy every second.”

Watanabe-san hasn’t surfed in 6 months so he got his 6 months worth of surfing in just 2.5 hours.

seeing the improvement year after year really makes me happy. and yes, it was absolutely perfect!

and yeah, i’m riding perfect waves along the side. an awesome feeling.

i was talking to my friend Egan on the beach yesterday. we were talking about the philippines and he asked me “isn’t it dangerous?” i told him “well, it can be dangerous if you get kidnapped. but it’s more dangerous if you get hurt surfing. we surf at remote areas. no hospitals, no lifeguards, and no help for hours and hours.”

“and we’re surfing heavy waves breaking on shallow reefs. one mistake, and you could die. that’s what makes it interesting. this is high risk, high return surfing!”

so experiencing that with Carter was super cool. now he knows what i’ve been doing my whole life. and now he’s got to experience it first hand. and ever since we got back a month ago, he asked me about 10 times, “when are we going back?” haha. it’s very addicting to live life on the line. i can’t wait to do it all over again!

Wow! I want to try this!
Good morning 6:30am.
North shore 10-12′ and bumpy.
South shore chest high and perfect.
Light off shore winds in the morning and onshore in the afternoon.
Super sunny and very warm. Another summer day!
Going snorkeling and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

wow! another beautiful day in paradise. the waves and weather were absolutely perfect this morning. not a cloud in the sky! great surfing Watanabe-san!

we surfed so long and got so hungry so it was juicy hamburger time! had an awesome day with you Watanabe-san and Shunsuke-san! keep on surfing!

had a great dinner and drinks with Naozo-san and Miwa-san last night. bummed they had to leave today but i’m sure i’ll see them soon. maybe in okinawa? ishigaki? tokyo? or even jamaica? haha.

kaimuki town is the best place to dine and have fun. so stoked the best craft beer bar is right down my street. kanpai!

thank you Miwa-san for the gifts!

thank you for the Mink Whale? wow! can’t wait to eat it!

thank you Saori-san for the sunrise photo. hope you have a great time in shikoku!

still can’t believe my new snorkeling spot. i encourage you all to practice free diving to 40′. once you can, you can come into my Urashima Taro world! and i guarantee you will love it!