Wipeout!
Good morning 4am.
North shore 2-3’ and clean.
South shore waist high and clean.
East winds at 10mph in the morning becoming South later.
Sun, clouds, maybe rain. Weird weather today.
Surfing all day long! I think 8 hours in the ocean today.
See you in the water.
Have a wonderful day!

ok, logged 6 more hours in the ocean today. morning and afternoon sessions. here is the morning, afternoon coming later. sleepy already and have to wake up at 4am tomorrow morning.

Shintaro-san on day 7. every day progressing little by little. i still can’t believe he’s only been surfing for a year. when you have the will, you have the way!

just to read the wave and take off in the right position takes so long to figure out. it took me about 5 years so Shintaro-san is way ahead of the game.

a little adjustments in his stance and now it’s perfect! this is perfect surfing!!! great job Shintaro-san!

i said this before, and i’ll stay this again. Saori-san is very smart. she can read the waves very well. you teach her something, and she will do it the exact right way. when we first started our session she was already surfing good. then i told her, put your arms out and you will turn faster.

next wave, she put her arms out and turned faster. just as simple as that. now it’s to the next level of surfing. smaller board and sharper turns. good job Saori-san!

so happy that you finally know the true feeling of surfing! and so happy we can all enjoy it together.

stoked so hear Nao-san spent her vacation in shikoku. gosh, i was just here a few weeks ago.

and so stoked she met Kaori-chan! welcome to the wonderful world of surfing Nao-san!

the surfer that got attacked in bali had to get flown to singapore for surgery. glad to hear he is doing fine. for the past 25 years since i started going to bali, i would always get travel insurance because if anything happened to me, i tell everyone i want to get flown straight to singapore on a private plane. singapore has some of the best doctors in the world and i wouldn’t want to get stuck in a bali hospital. i been in one before and it was a pretty horrific experience.

i can’t believe how fast Saori-san is getting so good! yesterday she was ready from the first wave to the last. perfect riding and perfect turning.

now that she can turn right perfectly, it’s time to turn left. then once she does that, she will get better and better even faster and faster. a very smart woman!

great job Saori-san! today, let’s go bigger and better. your level of surfing is rising pretty dam fast! super proud of you!

then Shintaro-san is another fast learner. he’s already surfing by himself catching good waves. it takes a normal person 3-5 years to figure out the waves. not for Shintaro-san!

and yesterday, he figured out how to turn his board.

and he did that perfectly. now, it’s rising to another level! today, hopefully be doing an off the lip! haha. hey Shintaro-san, look at this particular photo over and over and over. look at your feet, your head, your eyes, your arms, and you knees. this is 100% perfect surfing style.

great job again Shintaro-san. i know you have the surfing fever! keep on practicing and your life will never be the same. good job!!!

and i’m still learning how to fit into the smallest barrel. not this time. haha. gosh, been an awesome start to this summer. perfect weather, perfect conditions, and perfect waves. hope it never ends!