Local Motion Surf into Summer 2016 STARTS TODAY!
Good morning 6:15am.
Where’s the South swell????
Ala Moana Bowls chest high. Good conditions.
Diamond Head shoulder high and nice.
Light East winds at 10mph in the morning. Onshore in the afternoon.
Super sunny and very warm.
Surfing 2 rounds.
Have a wonderful day!

super fun morning session with Aihara-san. so stoked to see him ride some perfect waves.

i taught Aihara-san how to do a cutback today and he did it for the first time. then doing one after another all morning long. so stoked to see the smile!

great job Aihara-san. get ready for some more cutbacks tomorrow morning. bigger waves, bigger smiles!

most japanese never tried authentic mexican food before. so it’s a golden chance at my favorite secret mexican spot. the best enchiladas in hawaii.

after eating all this, we were super full!

viva mexico!

so stoked to see my good friend Fred Mendiola from guam. super good surfer and super good guy. we had some great memories back in the 1980’s competing and working with each other. those were the good old days! stoked to see you in the water Fred! hope to visit you someday in guam.
went for an awesome afternoon surf with Matsui-san. more cutbacks, more smiles, and more happiness! same thing tomorrow. good night.

South swell coming up now!
Surfed 6 hours today!
Happy!