Homeless in the Philippines.
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana waist high and bumpy.
Diamond Head chest high and windy.
Thursday new South swell.
Friday bigger.
Saturday biggest. Solid 6’ plus and big barrels!
Tradewinds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going surfing and “Kool and the Gang” tonight.
Have a wonderful day!

had an awesome morning session with Shimizu-san. super good surfer from Yamaguchi prefecture. cool watching him catch some good waves today.

look how perfect the waves where! it was empty when we got out so we caught a lot of waves in the beginning. then it got crowded but it was ok because it was time for lunch.

nice off the lip!

thank you Shimizu-san for the wonderful time! so stoked to see you ripping!

and yes, this is always a beautiful shot. the weather was absolutely perfect this morning. then right after lunch, it rained all afternoon long.

ate lunch at my favorite local roast pork shop.

and when you eat here, you eat local style. just like this! there is no place in waikiki like this. if you want to experience local lifestyle, this is the perfect place to do that.

waves been super small so been doing some long boarding. it’s amazing how fun it is to ride a tiny wave forever.

and with the weather so perfect, you don’t want to be anywhere else. hang 5 yeah!

did you guys see this yet? this is how some kids in china go to school.

i wonder how many kids slip or fall and die?

if this is how my friends and i had to go to school, it would be so scary. i’m so afraid of heights so i probably wouldn’t make it.

want to thank Rikita-san for the gifts. so stoked to eat Kumamoto ramen for the first time. it was delicious!

and these cups for my tea or whisky.

yes, my favorite on is the “yamato nadeshiko” one. haha.