Natures Amazing Cycle!
Good morning 5:30am.
Ala Moana chest high sets and clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and very warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!
Monthly Archives: June 2016
Born in Brazil
gosh, i just love my job. making people happy is so rewarding. and doing it through surfing and the ocean is a dream come true.
Marie-san was born in brazil but raised in japan. traveled to many exotic countries around the world but never surfed before. so today was her debut!
from the first wave to the last, she was a natural born surfer. making it look so easy.
caught so many waves and went to eat some pho after. laughing all morning long.
thank you Marie-san for the wonderful morning. you did great! hope you keep on surfing and keep on smiling!
then went back out this afternoon. omg, just perfect conditions all day long. waves coming up so probably going to be super perfect tomorrow.
Kosugi-san came straight from japan this afternoon and straight into the water. she couldn’t wait to surf so that’s what we did. more photos coming tomorrow. better get to sleep early again because i’m totally sunburnt again! tomorrow will do it all over again. surfing all day! love it!
Plan for Departure
downloaded the photos off my camera. it was a day to remember a wonderful surfer named Rabbit Kekai.
hawaiian style memorial right in front of Dukes.
i got to the beach and asked Tony, “can i borrow a board for the paddle out?” he said “no, jump on the canoe.” wow! score!
this was the best view! watching family and friends remembering a very loved man.
guys like Randy Rarrick and others in the water. so stoked to see so many of my friends. all of us was touched one way or another by Rabbit.
even caught a wave with the canoe. so stoked to do the same things Rabbit loved to do. this is hawaiian culture at its finest.
when ever i go to funerals, i always think about how i want mine done. and it would be the same way. friends and family gathering together to say their last goodbye. only tears of joy because that’s all i would want. throwing my ashes back into the ocean where i belong. the perfect end to my perfect life. so please don’t forget that’s how i want it done.
goodbye again Rabbit. you will never be forgotten!