wow! the fried papio was excellent! super fresh and super delicious.

seen this girl with the longest hair in the world walking across the street. it wasn’t only long, it was so beautiful! she must spend some time taking care of all that hair.

snapped this photo yesterday while surfing Tropical Storm Darby! so beautiful!

when i was in high school, all my brother and i did was fix volkswagon bugs. day in and day out. in the garage getting all greasy from head to toe. and it was always our dream to own a dune buggy but none of us could afford one. then we started talking about it last week and it took a day to track the perfect one down. my brother and i decided to buy this and enjoy our adult life living in our teenager dreams.

this buggy has everything i could have dreamt of. the best rims, motor, and transmission. it’s made for full racing and goes super fast. all it needs is a new paint job so that’s the next step. then once it’s painted all black, it will be the exact dream car we could dreamt of.

even my nephew Seth is stoked about it. haha. i’ve been driving it around and love the feeling. i don’t care what anybody thinks. as long as we are happy, that’s all that matters. whoop!

Wow! Sharks can jump!
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana chest high and good!
Diamond Head head high and windy.
Sandy Beach 3-5’ and windy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm day.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

so stoked to take the kids surfing today! i just love teaching them how to enjoy surfing and enjoy the life. here is 13 year old Ray on one of many waves this morning.

and Lisa had so many good ones too! just so calm and so confident.

when i’m in the water, i always try to capture the magical moment. a moment like this when Lisa is sharing a wave with her Dad in the back.

and i had to get one of Kitahama-san and Ray on the same wave too. it takes a lot of thinking, timing, and placement to capture something like this. and when you see the results, it’s all worth it.

this surf session will form the bond of this family even stronger. it’s just what nature does. great job guys!

the beautiful Kitahama-san family. during lunch, i asked the kids what their dreams were. both of them said “i want to become a doctor just like my dad.” omg, that was so cool to hear! i’m sure Kitahama-san is a great role model for his kids.

after we dropped Mama and the kids off at the hotel, we went for round 2! the waves bigger and cleaner. super off shore winds so i seen some amazing barrels at rock piles.

after each wave, Kitahama-san was getting better and better. he must have caught 30 sets this afternoon. we surfed for 4 hours and surfed till our arms said no. i had a great time today and hope everybody keeps on surfing! thanks guys!