It’s HERE! This afternoon head high and perfect off shore! Surfed 6 hours today!

every time i go into the ocean, i tell the kids to watch me just a few times before they even start to dive. watch the way i go down, watch the way i approach fish, and watch the way i spear it. those images will get etched into their little minds and one day, they will doing the same thing. but until then, it will take practice. and the best way to learn is by going, going, and going.

i told this kid that he will be taking home dinner someday soon. and i know it will happen because this kid never gives up. maybe someday he’ll be spearing huge tuna. i wouldn’t doubt it.

even the girls are going deeper. just loving the ocean and feeling so free. i told them that if i ever catch them playing that new pokeman game, i will be super pissed!

gosh, i miss Asayama-san already! it was pretty sad dropping him off at the airport. but yes, he will be back again and i’m looking forward to that.

check out his steak meal! eating like a teenager. haha.

i ate the local ham soup. it was so good!

how amazing is this cloud??? looks like a face!!! see the nose? see the hair? see the mouth? the more i look at it, the more i get chicken skin.

i met Yumei-chan about 10 years ago. from the first day, she inspired me a lot. and i can tell you that i’m not the only person she’s inspired. awesome article Yumei-chan! i’m so proud of you.

Darby is coming! Get ready for some solid East swells!
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head head high and windy.
Sandy Beach overhead and fun.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Rainy morning becoming sunny.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!