A little dangerous?
Good morning 5:30am.
Ala Moana chest high and bumpy. Onshore.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy. Onshore.
North shore chest high and perfect.
Light South winds at 5mph.
Rain, clouds, and sun. Very warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

omg, the waves were so good today!

Hasegawa-san and his son Taiki-kun were the luckiest surfers in the world! only 2 guys out at one of the most crowded spot on the south shore. here is Hasegawa-san on wave 3 of 20.

Hasegawa-san surfs really good! he was so stoked to score such perfect waves!

had a few barrels too! so beautiful conditions!

we were so happy today. the 3 of us caught about 50 waves today. no stress, no people, and no worries.

Taiki-kun was getting better and better on each wave. seen him doing some nice turns by the end of the session.

super cool surfer kid. so lucky his dad got him into surfing at such a young age.

even Rodney told me “wow, this is the first time this year i surfed it this good with this little guys out. we scored.”

so happy eating our loco moco. then Hasegawa-san and Taiki-kun went back to their hotel to take a happy afternoon nap. thank you chiba boys!

then i headed home to grab the new toy. picked up Asayama-san and drove around the whole island! we were like 2 teenagers having the fast and the furious time of our lives!

ended it with the most beautiful sunset shining on the rainbow. then the full moon to close it. i don’t know how i have so much energy? i feel like a teenager again!

Sun, Rain, Sun, Rainbows, Pipeline, Sunset, Romy’s, Sandy’s, Speed, and Home. So fun afternoon!