i was so stoked to surf with Kalani Robb this morning! i haven’t seen this guy for a very long time so it was good to catch up and talk about the good old days. i was with Kalani the very first time he went to Japan back in 1992. then hung out with him during all the ASP events throughout the years. this kid was one of the most famous pro surfers in the world. good surfer, good looks, and good attitude. good to see you in the water today Kalani!

good to surf with Dr. Sato-san this morning too. super cool guy that loves to surf so much. his first wave at Bowls this morning was as perfect as it gets.

lots of rights, and lots of turns.

the past 2 days, i’ve been getting some very long rights, and some very long lefts. it’s crazy how this amazing surf spot is 15 minutes away from my home.

Sato-san’s from Shikoku and loves the rights at this secret river mouth we all surf at. so going right is very natural for him.

surf and smile. that’s the great way to enjoy life.

good to see you both Kalani and Sato-san. keep on surfing and keep on the wonderful life…

until we meet again. maybe in Shikoku? or maybe in Hawaii. either way, it’s all good!

**by the way, Seth Moniz is in the quarter finals in South Africa. contest will start at 7:15pm so don’t miss it.

www.worldsurfleague.com

want to thank Ishikawa-san for my next dinner over rice.

this world is getting sad. everybody, please throw away your trash…

one a dark afternoon, Matsu, Chifumi-san, and i chartered a small Indonesian boat to go for a dive. we all took our spearfishing gear so were looking forward to catching some sashimi. we were out for hours covering so much area, but i couldn’t even find a fish???

our driver was looking at us like we were crazy. i would think so too.

the only fish that was was swimming around that day crossed paths with Chifumi-san. so yes, she speared the only fish. as for Matsu and i, all we got were jelly fish bites all over our bodies. haha. so if you want to know how the spearfishing is in South Sumatra, i would tell you “forget diving, just surf.”

i was pretty shocked when i found out Anthony Bourdain committed suicide. about 10 years ago, this guy inspired me to travel the world. yeah, i was already traveling the world, but he inspired me to travel the world in a different way. to try everything, to eat everything, to communicate with locals, and to go with the flow. so during each and every surf trip, i would break away from the group, walk around alone, take my camera, and film the real life. my videos were nothing like Anthony Bourain’s, but my experiences were fascinating. i saw the world in a whole different way. here is one of those days i broke away from the group to experience this wonderful world. thank you Anthony Bourdain for inspiring me to explore this wonderful world!

Seth Moniz advances again! Next is Quarterfinals in Ballito, South Africa. Go Seth!

Good morning 5:40am.
South swell continues.
Ala Moan shoulder high and super good.
Diamond Head head high and getting better.
Light trade winds at 10mph so good conditions.
Sunny and very warm.
Going surfing and foiling.
Have a wonderful day!