Big Wave Foamball:  Takeshi-san @ Rockpiles…

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana head high and good.
Diamond Head still overhead and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Welcome to this Historic Hawaiian South Swell!

i love when the waves are big because there is so much parking in the Bowls parking lot.  when it’s small, it’s packed!  so yeah, i wish it was like this everyday!

today was huge again!  still some solid 6′ sets with plenty of power.  my student and i dove under a huge freak set and her leash broke.  i could have given her my board and made her feel comfortable but instead, i said “ok, now you have to swim in.”  you can see us swimming in on the left side of this photo.  she was super calm and swam in through the big waves to get her board.  these days are the most important because you learn a lot.  and on top of that, she caught a huge wave before that so the day was a success.

right when we came in, a thin colorful rainbow flashed right in front of us.  we were very thankful to survive another day of this historic swell.

then we went back this afternoon for more surf.  Daisuke-san rode a big set from the outside all the way to the inside.  it was so cool to watch.

another perfect surf day in Hawaii.  can’t wait till tomorrow!  goodnight.