omg, i surfed out at Bowls in the mid-morning and i couldn’t believe how many surfers were out!  some surfers were cool, and some surfers were uncool.  bad manners and clueless at times.  i wish surf instructors would teach their students etiquette and mannerism.

this guy is cool.  Takeshi-san taking off on some big ones today.

and this is how you avoid accidents.  by keeping calm and cool.

good style and always looking forward.

other than being super dangerous this morning, everything else was perfect.  i should ride my foil tomorrow and scare everybody away.  haha.

yesterday morning was small and low tide.  that made the waves break really weird.  then we went back out on the afternoon high tide and the waves were epic!  bigger waves and way better form.  it was perfect!

i chose to take out my foil because i felt like flying around on the high tide.  i haven’t had that much fun on the foil in a long time.

then i fly by this girl and get another amazing photo.  perfect wave, form, colors, and style.  you got to love it…

my iPhone storage was FULL yesterday so i had to delete a lot of old photos.  wanted to post this one again before i deleted it because this is one is absolutely beautiful.

and speaking of beautiful.  once the winds back off, i’m going back here.  this is one of my most favorite spots in the whole world!

Yesterday Once More: Carter Lee spray of the day @ Bowls.

Good morning 4:20am.
Ala Moana chest high and morning sickness. Afternoon better.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Bigger waves tomorrow.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!