after 3 days of amazing surfing at another spot, we decided to head back to Bowls this early morning in the dark.  it’s so cool to be out there at this time.

and when the sun starts to rise, it’s breathtaking.

it’s so cool to see this girl getting better and better each day.  she’s learning how to cutback already.  and doing it!!!

we’ve been practicing takeoffs in waves quadruple this size of this so this is super easy for her.  calm and cool making almost every takeoff.

after 20 rides in the morning, she didn’t get enough.  so we went back out at noon and surfed 20 more rides.  i’m not sure where you get that kind of energy because i’m having a hard time keeping up.  haha.

so cool to see guys driving their classic cars.  i would love to test drive that!

a couple of weeks ago, i took this photo sequence of Hajime-san.  one of the best in a while.

here is the action shot.  big bottom turn with lots of spray.

then the spray covering me and my lens.

then i get the peekaboo shot!  i love it!

yesterday i jumped on my foil to get the shot i’m always looking for.

the perfect foil drone photo right in front.  lucky i didn’t fall.  haha…

Afternoon @ The Rights

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!