after that last huge swell, things have calmed down.  the past few days has been the smallest it could ever get in town.  the good thing is that the Summer swells aren’t over yet!

this morning the conditions were perfect!  only us in this huge ocean…

since Japan doesn’t look like it’s going to open up anytime soon, i’m starting to look elsewhere.  i love this cool country so this might be my 2nd choice.

good waves, nice people, delicious food, and very cheap.  i think i just decided my next surf trip!  Taiwan!!!

an average house on Oahu will now cost you $1,153,500.  and a condominium will cost you $516,500.  and that’s just the average.  if you want something good in a good location, you can double that.  the price of paradise is going up and up…

i heard about this story a few years ago.  it’s about a man named Masafumi Nagasaki who lived on a desert island for 29 years.  he was naked and free and loving his life!  then he was kicked off the island by the government and relocated into a small tiny room in the big city.  of course he wasn’t happy.  4 years later, he was allowed to go back to his island and this video is heartwarming.  i love stories like this.  it makes me appreciate nature and freedom even more.  anyway, watch his smile when he reconnects with nature.  it’s so beautiful!

Yesterday once more…

Good morning 3:20am.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!