Epic conditions…

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

there were 6 locals out this morning at Bowls so if you’re not from here and wanted a wave, you would have to wait a very long time.  i can guarantee you that none of these guys will give you a wave.

it’s pretty crazy that i love surfing much more than i ever did in my entire life.  i feel like a kid that just wants to get better and better.

here’s a kid who’s name is Jeannie Chesser.

i think this is the happiest surfer girl in the world right now.  always smiling and enjoying all the little details.

and now that she can do a proper bottom turn, surfing is only going to get better.

look at this huge rainbow and that little girl raising her hands in the air. can you see her?

this monk seal was on the beach all morning again.  i think this is her new home.  please respect her and don’t go near her.  be smart…

Red, white, and Blue Hawaii…

Yellow, Black, and Blue Hawaii…

OMG, you almost killed me!  abunai!!!

Red 5’10, Black, and Blue Hawaii…

Blue Hawaii saying goodbye to Daisuke-san.  See you on your next trip!