Back in the Day:  Crystal Dzigas Hang TEN @ Queens…

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

recently, night fishermen have been using drones to carry their fishing line all the way out to the sea and drop it far out for a better chance to catch a fish.  but when the fishing line gets stuck to the reef, they just simply cut the line from their fishing poles and leave.  so when us surfers go out to surf early in the morning, there are these thick fishing lines all over the place.  this morning, there were 2 lines that were from shore all the way out to the lineup at Bowls.  i saw one surfer get tangled up and he almost started to panic.  this is very dangerous because this line very strong and it won’t break.  so if it gets tangled onto your arm or leg, it will cut you deep.  this line is so strong that you need a sharp knife to cut it.  and i don’t know of any surfer who carries a knife on them.

the smartest thing to do is to make a ball and wind it up little by little.   the first line was so long that it took me 30 minutes.

at the end of the line is this sharp hook stuck to the reef and the only way to get it out is to stick your hand down and untangle it.  luckily nobody stepped on one of these this morning.  this was never a problem before because fishermen couldn’t get their lines that far out.  now that they use drones, the lines are everywhere in the ocean.  this isn’t my first time doing this.  i wish fishermen would be more respectful and responsible about this problem.  someday a turtle or monk seal is going to get tangled in this line and die.  or it might even be a surfer.  that’s probably when people will start to take action but that’s too late.  it was definitely a bummer to start off a beautiful day getting tangled up in the beautiful ocean…

an hour later, i finally joined the ladies and had a great surf session.

the waves were small but if you have a magic board, it’s all good!

after lunch we went back out for Round 2.  i was yelling “GO!” to this girl and this time mother nature won.  look at her board flying and her 2 feet in the air.  haha.  after getting the wave of the day yesterday, today the ocean had other plans for her.  this is why surfers fall in love with the ocean.  it will give you the happiest moments in your life, but it will also humble you…

i don’t know why but sometimes i find holes in my surfboards.  and when i first see it, it hurts!!!

ding repair is a very dirty job.  i really don’t enjoy doing it, but when it’s my magic board, i’m doing it.

this is the easy part.  sanding it is the itchy part.

then rewarding myself with a fresh poke bowl makes me happy again.

when i’m shooting photos, i try to take off behind the surfer, ride down the wave together, and take photos at all angles.  if that surfer falls, we’re both in big trouble.  haha…

i went to look for slippers but it’s all sold out!  omg!