i woke up yesterday at 4 am and was waiting for the sun to come up. i looked out my window and uchizuma looked pretty fun. i knew there was swell but didn’t want to wake everybody up.
then i got a call at 7:30 am from matchi saying “hey, the waves are going off! it’s like 6′ backdoor!” i woke everybody up and jumped in the car.
when i pulled up, i couldn’t believe what i saw. just perfect peeling rights that some surfers can only dream of. i knew i was going to get barreled!
i don’t care where i am, i always check the situation. with all the rain, the river was flowing and so where the logs, trees, rubbish, and everything you can think of. it’s kind of dangerous when you bottom turn and see a tree in front of you. yikes!
i only had a 5’8 and was going to paddle out, until i saw this. matchi went to pick up my 6’8 and that was a better choice.
on my second wave, i got one of the biggest barrels i’ve ever got in shikoku. nothing can beat that feeling. the feeling that’s still inside of me.
where ever you surf in this world, you have to respect the locals. i’ve been surfing with these guys for the past 20 years. all cool guys! thanks for sharing boys!
there are 2 typhoons spinning off japan now. i’m looking forward to these next few days. stay tuned. have a wonderful day!
**last, does anybody know how to get rid of jet lag? my mind is going crazy!!!!
