Sorry World Champion!

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 i get to Waikiki and see my family there.  Kelia Moniz asked Mateus to go surfing and he said “no, i want to go with Unko Kirby.”  haha!  sorry World Champion!   this is how i teach kids how to surf.  i take it very slow and try not to make a mistake.  because one mistake could turn this newborn surfer into a land lover if he gets traumatized.   and along the way, i’m documenting everything!   i don’t miss precious moments like this… and along the way, i make sure we’re having fun.  when you hear an old Unko like me yelling, screaming, and making funny faces, even a nervous kid will laugh.  haha… then once you get the kid to laugh, it’s only pure stoke after that… i’ve known this kid for 5 years and play with him all the time.  BUT, i’ve never seen him so happy like this!   such a precious moment for me… practice makes perfect.  so the more we go, the better Mateus will get.  look at Grandpa Mason in the background sharing a wave with his grandson.  priceless… good boy Mateus!  call me anytime and i’ll drop everything to take you surfing!!! it’s been a while since i surfed with Nakahodo-san so it was good to see him yesterday evening.  oh, we surfed in January so that’s not a while right?  haha… i got out my foil drone and went to work.  the waves were absolutely beautiful!   and so is this photo!   taking my foil out and shooting photos gives me so many different options.  i like this angle too.  but this is the shot i’m looking for.   calm, cool, and happy!  good surfing Nakahodo-san!  you must be so tired after catching 20 plus waves.   happy tired!  haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide