Gold Coast: Live like a Tourist

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the talk of the talk in Australia is “did you carry the Koala Bear?  i’ve been hearing that for years and years.  so being the tourist i am, i had to experience it too.   how was it?  well, it was like carrying a stuffed animal teddy bear.   would i do it again?  never.

 

i can’t believe this trip is coming to an end.  i had a hard time saying my goodbyes because we had such precious moments together.  our presence was loud and clear.  Seth is on the WCT and he has support from so much family, friends, and the whole State of Hawaii.  the whole world is cheering for him.  the most lovable kid, the most respectful kid, the most thankful kid, and the most biggest heart kid.  he made us all proud and i’m sure he will keep that up.  so my little message to Seth, “hey boy, you are the man!  i was so proud of you this whole trip.  you made your rookie debut and showed the world what you and your family represent.  the way you won your heats were amazing, and the way you lost your quarter finals heat was amazing too.  you kept cool and kept calm.  i know you were heartbroken, so was i.   heartbroken because we both know that you could have went all the way.   just get back up, learn, and keep on killing all the giants.  i’m with you all the way.  love you boy…”
KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide