Back to Surfers Paradise Hawaiian Style…

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 today was a beautiful day!  so glad i went on that long trip because now that i’m back, i love Hawaii even more!  and today, it was absolutely perfect!!! Hiroki-san’s nickname is Rocky.  i don’t know how he got it but if were to give him a nickname, it would be Happy!  this is one of the happiest surfers i know. Ty and i have a lot in common.  we love to fish, dive, and love everything about the ocean.  and now  that Ty can surf, the ocean is even more to love.   this guy was taking off all by himself and it was only his 2nd time surfing.   Masaki-san is new to surfing too.  but if you saw him charging waves by himself, you would think he’s done this his whole life.   Lisako-san’s second time surfing.  her first time was in San Diego so maybe we’re talking 3 second rides.  today, it was more like 30 second rides.  lots of energy in this yoga teacher!   watching the smiles and stoke was so nice to see.  i was watching some surf lessons in Australia but it was nothing close to this.  Hawaii is the place to be!   another long ride for Masaki-san.  and this is called “stoked.”   Ty is a yoga teacher too so he knows how to keep calm and enjoy the moment.   and this is enjoying the moment… Older sister Lisako-san riding her last wave of the day.  so smooth… Rocky asked me why it was so uncrowded.  one reason is i know where to go.  and another reason is that when i paddle out, people paddle away from me.  probably because they know that we’re going to get all the good waves.  haha… Rocky on a left all to himself.   happy smile, and happy shaka.  this is surfing, this is our life!   a wonderful day to spend in Hawaii with the family.  this is Hawaiian Surfers Paradise!  thank you Rocky for bringing your brothers and sister to surf with me.  i had a wonderful time with you all.  i’m so happy that you guys can all surf together from now on.  your life and relationships will be even better!    have a safe flight back to Japan and please tell Kami-san that i said “Aloha!”

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide