Foiling Jurassic Park on a Sunday

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 Nao-san gave the the update on this mornings half marathon.  no way into Bowls so no problem at all.  many other options on this beautiful Sunday. took a nice drive out to the East side and checked out Jurassic’s.  when we first got there, the waves were tiny.  then little by little, it started to grow.   so i let Nao-san make the call.   and she said “let’s go out, why not!”  was fun to see her riding beautiful waves into the beautiful scenery.  absolutely breathtaking!   good to see all my foiler friends out.  Jason Tango ripping hard!   i didn’t even have to ask Nao-san if she liked it our not because i could tell by her face that she was loving it.   this is one of the most magical surf spots on this island.  it only breaks on high surf advisories like today!   so yeah, we scored!   glad to be back home and flying like a free bird!   i call this spot Jurassic Park because it’s the most playful and magical ocean park in the world.  just ask my friends and they will tell you the same thing… paddle out, ride some waves, come in, drink water and eat food, talk story and laugh, then paddle back out for more waves.   it was a beautiful Sunday surfing and foiling with the island boys!   then it’s an automatic stop on the way back at the best Lilikoi Butter house in the world. freshly made yesterday with love and aloha.  can’t wait to spread it on my toast!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide