Prime Rib, Avocado Smoothies, and Tate Cookies!

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 started off today with some easy fun waves.  Nao-san paddled out to Bowls all by herself and caught waves all morning by herself.  it was actually too easy for her.   i just surfed on the side watching this girl having the time of her life!   then we went to load up on protein.  prime rib protein! then off to get a cool avocado smoothie.  it’s always a first time for everything. since the morning was so easy, we needed a challenge in the afternoon.  and Diamond Head was the right place for that!   but before you paddle out, you have to hike down the steep mountain.  you’ll be lucky if you don’t fall.  go slow girl! then right when we get out, i see Nao-san on the outside riding a set!  it was super wild but she hung on and rode it till the end.  amazing!   i explained to Nao-san how Bowls is so easy, and Diamond Head is so challenging.  now she knows why.  if you can surf Diamond Head, Bowls is easy.  if you can surf Bowls, that doesn’t mean you can surf Diamond Head.   go try and you’ll know what i mean.  get ready to be lost at sea… foiling Diamond Head isn’t easy too.  most of the time, you’re hanging on for your dear life!  haha…went to Whole Foods and seen a sale on my favorite cookies!  usually around $8 but on sale for $4.  i was sold!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide