Hawaiian Uncles and Nephews…

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 going to Molokai over and over makes me realize how important the slow life is.  when i first started going there, everybody would tell me to “slow down.”   but recently, nobody’s saying that to me so i’m guessing that i’m slowing down?  hope it’s true…   how in the world could you not slow down when you’re experiencing breathtaking sunsets like this from your balcony?   forgot to tell Peter King thank you for letting me borrow your foil board in Australia.  super cool guy that’s super cool to me.  thank you bro! i looked at this photo over and over.  in my mind, i’m thinking about how i’m going to get into the barrel next time.  i know if i grabbed my rail on this one, maybe i could have gotten barreled.  but at the same time, if i made a slight misjudgment, i could have killed myself.  so i guess it’s all about commitment.  that’s something i can do after watching Seth surf the contest.  so come this Summer, i’ll be trying to get barreled either at Bowls, or Big Rights, or both.  got 2 other of my foiler friends thinking the exact same thing.  the boys can’t wait… i miss Seth already.  i miss his calmness, i miss his coolness, and i miss his explosiveness.  it’s crazy that after all these years of teaching this kid things, he’s now teaching me.   and i want to learn more and more from him… want to thank Nao-san for the treats!   itadakimasu!   want to thank Aida-san for the treats.  itadakimasu again!  hey Mateus, call me up already!  let’s go surf again!!!   you’re the cutest kid in the whole world!  you bring out the happiness to everyone around you…after my trip to Australia, i can say over and over that there is nowhere in the world better to surf than right here in Hawaii.  i’ve traveled the world and yet to find anywhere even close to this…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide