everything happens for a reason right? i was at the airport for 3.5 hours as my flight was on standby. i was waiting to board my plane watching the news. typhoon 15 was causing destruction in japan and my flights course was going through it. finally, they cancelled the flight. great because i didn’t want to die. not yet.
yesterday was a treat for me. just to be in a huge ocean in the middle of a typhoon surfing with one other guy is cool. heavy rain, strong winds, nothing keeps us surfers out of the water. people think we’re crazy and if i wasn’t a surfer, i’d think the same thing. we live for days like yesterday and even if it was 15′, we’d be out there.
this is the first time i surfed here. i heard a lot about it but it’s not the same. so pulling up and seeing this incredible empty lineup got me pretty excited!
i want to thank sudo-san for taking me out and showing me where the lineup was. just the 2 of us surfing was cool!
i rode a 6’8 because i heard it’s really hard to paddle into the wave. with the stiff offshore winds blowing in my face as i was trying to get down the wave, i could imagine how it would be at 10′. next big swell, i’m surfing there again. it’s a regular footer dream!
thank you kimura-san for standing in the rain shooting these photos. your getting better! you can use my camera anytime!
