good evening. wow, what a nice day it was outside. i know i shouldn’t be checking the waves and stuff because i’m going to want to surf. so like a fool, i dropped by queen’s this morning and the waves were so fun. gosh, i would do anything to be able to catch one wave right now. all i can do is dream…. i’m going to find out on tuesday how much longer i have to stay out of my second home, the ocean…. hope not the 3 months everybody’s telling me. if that’s the case, i’m going to roppongi and rent an apartment and drink my life away… haha.. just joking.. i ain’t that weak. maybe just a month? have a great evening…
**ok, i heard that there was a spot in east indonesia that’s identical to the world class mentawai wave, macaroni’s. the only thing is that instead of it being a left, it was a right. really? that was in my mind before i boarded the boat. so there we were, one early morning looking at the spot. we were anchored pretty far so the waves looked really tiny. we were planning to dive all day so figure, get in an early morning session before we hunt fish. a couple of us grabbed our boards, sped over on the dingy, and as we were approaching the lineup, i couldn’t believe my eyes. macaroni’s right!!! shit, the waves were absolutely perfect!! indo perfection. glassy conditions with 4-5′ waves peeling like it was fake or something. it was just the 3 of us out getting barreled out of our minds. i totally blew it by not taking my video camera but even if i did, there was no way i would have shot video. i just wanted to surf this dream session with the memory etched in my mind for the rest of my life…. and plus, i didn’t want to show anybody else in this world how perfect that wave is. it was just us and the ocean and i was loving life….
little did i know, al had his hero wrist camera and snapped some photos of that dream session. we were out so early that morning that the sun wasn’t even up yet. and when it started to rise, the golden light shined and all you could see is white teeth smiling cheek to cheek. look how glassy the conditions were, imagine 4-5′ lines coming in. till this day, that morning session was like a dream. i still can’t believe it…
ok, now i’m busted. here it is. please don’t anybody go there. and please don’t anybody ask me where it is. if i tell you, i’d have to kill you….
yeah, you would be laughing if you got as many perfect barrels as i did that morning…. thanks al for keeping the dream alive….
