Surfer’s Eye, or Pterygium

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woke up early, drove along the coast, and pulled over at beautiful Diamond Head.  only 3 other surfers out so it looked too inviting.  grabbed my foil, hiked down the mountain, and was out there flying like a bird!  Feel the Freedom!!!

then had my eye doctor appointment this morning too.  always freaking so nervous because my first eye surgery 10 years ago was a nightmare.  i actually woke up during the surgery!!!  omg!

the good news was, i can see.  the bad news was, yes, i will need surgery.  how did i react?   i thought about what my grandparents taught me “shikataganai.”

 this was my Ptergium in my left eye 10 years ago.  if you surf as much a i do, you will eventually get it.  and the only way to get rid of it is surgery.  so yeah, since i have to stay out of the water for 3 weeks, i’m thinking of it as my vacation…and these will be my sunglasses at day, and at night for a while.   pretty cool yeah?  scheduling my surgery for this year.  but before that, scheduling my vacation.  haha…

check out my lunch today.  the best Filipino food on Oahu!

want to thank the ladies for the wonderful week we just had together.  throughout the laughs and the tears, i really needed this time to reflect on the past, the present, and the future.  i couldn’t have gotten through this past year without you guys.  thank you for always being there for me…  we shall meet again very soon…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide