i was sitting in my car looking at the waves for 30 minutes. i wanted to foil but i was too tired, so i decided to go home. started my engine and then my friend Jason knocked on my window and said “let’s foil!” within a second, i said “ok, let’s foil!” we were like 2 kids enjoying life to the fullest!!! 
we took turns catching wave after wave. it was beautiful, fun, and so relaxing. when i came in, i checked my texts. i texted Seth earlier “welcome back. good job in Australia!” he replied “thanks. let’s foil!” haha…
in the 35 years i’ve been surfing Ala Moana, this was the first time i ever got stung by a jellyfish! i couldn’t believe it! it was stinging, burning, and painful…
luckily i brought back some jellyfish spray from Australia. this thing worked super good! 
now the pain is gone, but the itchiness will be here for a week. some sleepless nights ahead…
want to thank Kanazawa-san for the senbei! 
i bit into one and had a creamy surprise in the middle. so good! 
and want to thank Hattori-san for the custard cake. i was so hungry after surfing so i opened it and ate it on the way home. haha.
another helicopter crash here in Hawaii. it’s pretty scary because these things crash all the time and they’re flying over us all day long. three people died in this crash…
loving these cloudy days because it’s creating the most amazing sunsets…
