Experiment and Design

233

 Golden Week continues!  had a great time with Fukuhara-san this morning.  super cool surfer from Tokyo.  we rode different boards today to enjoy the ride in different ways.  the longboard equals long rides.  and the short board for more excitement!  perfect form!   thank you Fukuhara-san for the awesome surf session.  you surfed so good!   along the way, i was having fun surfing too.  then went to surf with Ai-san.  the waves were super glassy and super fun.  look at this beautiful ride! keeping calm and enjoying the ride to the fullest.   great surfing today Ai-san!  we were so lucky to surf empty waves and hopefully tomorrow we can do the same.   then drove by Diamond Head later this evening.  the waves were too good to pass up.  50 surfers so too crowded for surfing, but for foiling, the crowd doesn’t matter.  i got my new foil board yesterday from Carl Shaper.  i count’ wait to try it out!   this board is built for speed.  it was going so fast that i couldn’t  control it!  haha…i’m heading to Bali next week and my friend Mike Woo is making me a foil board!  omg!  so stoked!   i can’t wait to foil the wave of my life!!!  thanks Mike!

surfed 3 rounds totaling 6.5 hours today.  tomorrow i’ll be doing the same thing as Golden Week comes to an end.  then next Thursday starts my personal Golden Week!  can’t wait to fly, eat, foil, and laugh…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide