We are Building Champions!

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omg, i foiled morning and afternoon at Diamond Head today.  it was as good as it can ever get for foiling.  super long rides flying like a bird.  i just love it!

since i’m going to Bali in a few days, i was thinking back about the first time i took Seth there.  he was only 12 years old and had no idea he’d be going back there 9 years later to surf the World Championship Tour.  but Uncle Kirby did…  here’s the caption i wrote on my blog 9 years ago.

“if it wasn’t for surfing, i would be less 10,000 friends. and if it wasn’t for surfing, i’d probably be in jail. surfing has given me things that money can’t buy. making friends and traveling with family is priceless. so i wanted to thank everybody that has supported my surfing career… mahalo”

i remember teaching Seth how to eat with his hands too.  he was tripping out at first, then got use it towards the end of our trip.  look how cute this kid was!

first trip to Bali and he won his division in the International Grom contest!

and Isaiah won his division too!  i was so proud of these boys.

this was our very first session at Keramas.  i remember Seth adapting very well to this tricky wave.   i would shoot photos all morning, then we’d go back to our hotel and look at them.  learning frame by frame what it takes to get to the top.  fast forward 9 years, this is where the WCT event starts next week!  Seth should feel like home out there…

by the end of the trip, Seth had his barrel riding perfected.  and he was only 12 years old.

Kazuma-kun from Okinawa came along for the ride and he’s now the top pro surfer in Okinawa.  it’s amazing how these kids grew up to where they are today.   us Uncles are super proud!

Seth was always very approachable and very good with kids.  this is why everybody loves him.  Kazuma-kun feeling comfortable.  haha.  by the way, look at Seth’s abs!  just like superman!

back then, the exchange rate was 8700 rupiah to $1USD.  now, it’s 14500 rupiah to $1USD.  i’m going to be rich when i get there!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide