LIVE TODAY, NOT TOMORROW.

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SALAMAT PAGI!

wow, i couldn’t believe when i arrived at the airport in bali. i was greeted by 2 amanusa staff, they grabbed my surfboard and suitcase and drove me to this amazing resort! the property is bigger than the hilton hawaiian village but instead of over 800 rooms, there are only 35 here. the staff is amazing. professional with the most upscale service. i checked out the waves in front and it was super good. the sun was setting and nobody was out so i passed. the 20 minute paddle out wasn’t too inviting. i’m here alone so it was actually pretty lonely. my room alone could have slept 5 comfortably. i had a couple bintangs as i watched the beautiful sunset, soaked in the bubble bath, had the driver drive me around nusadua to look for some cheap eats. i was going to eat in the hotel but after i seen the prices, way out of my league. i think i’m the first ever customer that stayed in this luxury resort who walked down the road and ate street food for under a dollar. haha. i guess that’s the surfer in me.
well, i have to get going. eating a crazy luxury breakfast here, then heading back to the airport where a little sea airplane will be waiting for me to take me to an island called Moyo. amanwana is the next hotel for the next 2 days and i’m looking forward to meeting up with the others and experience some excellent spearfishing! got my gun and i’m ready.
so far, so good. i feel like a millionaire with 100 ruphia in his pocket. haha.
a quote from a book i’m reading now.
“LIVE TODAY, NOT TOMORROW”
that’s my everyday life!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide