good evening. went to my eye doctor today. the patch came off. my eyes are bloody red. my doc said it will be another week or so till the redness goes away. i asked him the magic question “when can i go back home? i mean, when can i go back in the ocean?” he said in a week or two. i’m stoked but seriously, i don’t think i can wait that long. i think i should hop on an airplane and go to somewhere far from the ocean. i might have to check my google map right now…. anyway, wanted to thank everybody for sending me such kind emails. doomo arigato gozaimasu….
while i was gone, my brother’s been working on my boat. he put a top on so now we won’t get sunburned. a barbecue, a cooler, and some friends sitting in the shade in the middle of the ocean drinking beers. how does that sound?? good yeah….
he also has the big reels and poles ready. my doctor said i can’t go back IN the water yet. but that doesn’t mean i can’t go ON the water right? i really don’t like to go fishing but now, i’m freakin ready. one step closer to the ocean. makes me happy even thinking about it….
wow, some big news out of bali. garut just won the first ever asian beach games held in bali. he’s made history and won the gold medal. it’s so funny because when i was in bali the other week, garut told me that he was one of the 4 indonesians that qualified to surf the event. then he told me that he wanted to win it. and so he did, right in his back yard. garut on fire!!!!
kind of weird how i remember garut swimming in the shorebreak naked when he was like 7 years old. i’d always remember him by his smile. he’d just look at me and smile. that’s how we communicated back then. and now, we go out and grab a few beers and jacksan’s together. gosh, if i was on kuta beach when he won the gold medal, i would have had him on my shoulders for sure. it’s not about what country i’m from, it’s about the lifetime experiences i have with this kid. i’m super proud of garut!!!! when he comes to hawaii this november, i’m going to take him to the maitai bar, buy him 2 beers, then go behind him and pull his pants down to his knees and run away. he did that to me so many times in bali so now it’s payback!! haha…. congratulations garut!!! you da man…. photos by Tim Hain
