i was watching Seth’s first round heat last night. even though the waves weren’t barreling, i had a feeling Seth was going to get one. that’s pure wave knowledge. good boy Seth! 
the heat come down to the last score. could you imagine how these guys are feeling? luckily Seth made it to the 3rd round. i could imagine how Tony and Tammy must have felt waiting for that score??? i’m glad i wasn’t there…
yesterday i was trying to catch my biggest wave. but before then, i was practicing in the inside. everything going smooth and i was super confident taking off on this one. 
then the turbulence picked my foil up and threw me over. this might look like a major wipeout, but this is exactly how you want to fall when you foil. the farther away, the safer…
happy feet! haha… after a wipeout like this, i can only get back up and try again. and by the end of the session, i did catch the biggest wave of my foiling career! 
after 40 years of short boarding, i thought i seen and experienced it all. but now, i’m looking forward to my next 40 years foil boarding. it feels like my life has started all over again. and i’m so excited! 
but before i can foil anymore, i have to fix my eye. pterygium started on my right eye a few months ago and it’s getting worst and worst by the day. look how thick it got! the only way to remove it is surgery. and since i see pterygium in so many of my surfer and fishermen friends eyes, i will document this process so you know what to expect. and being that this is my 3rd time getting surgery in my eyes, nothing is fun about it. this is just part of a surfers life. some people leave it, and some people fix it. get back to you when i wake up from my surgery today… and for some reason i don’t wake up, i just want to say that i had a wonderful life…
