if i were to explain a take off on a 12′ Pipeline wave on a shortboard, i’d say it’s not that bad. just have to commit and if you fall, it isn’t that dangerous. but taking off on a head high wave on a foil is way more risky. you have to commit and if you fall, you have a chance of getting sliced up pretty good. i already ordered a bigger board so i can take of on bigger waves with my foil. someday Pipeline? haha. 
so happy to surf with Marissa yesterday. i taught her how to surf when she was a little baby, and now she’s surfing like an experience woman. this is my reward…
the higher you get, the higher you fall! you should have seen my wipeout after this! head first!!! 
the nurse tells me to change into this. she walks in later and says “excuse me, you put it on backwards.” Opps…. 
then the nurse stick the IV in me. then she starts asking me questions.
- do you smoke cigarettes? no.
- do you do drugs? no
- do you smoke marijuana? no
- do you drink alcohol? yes, about once a week.
- do you have allergies? no. opps, yes, shrimp.
- did you fall down recently? no
then i thought to myself, “omg, i fall everyday! i even fell 5x yesterday.” opps…
then the anesthesiologist walks in and says “you will be ok. you won’t feel any pain.” i told him “please give me more than usual because i woke up during my first eye surgery 11 years ago. it was like a nightmare!” he says “don’t worry.” then towards the end of my eye surgery, i freaking woke up! it was so painful so i started freaking out and give me more gas. then my Doctor was calmly saying “keep calm Kirby.” now i know how my students feel when i’m telling them to keep calm when the waves are huge! haha… maybe it was payback?
