Shopping like a Girl…

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 watching Seth’s heat today and getting so excited!  he was surfing against the local favorite Jack Robinson.  Jack absolutely dominated yesterdays heat but yesterday is yesterday.  and Seth’s knows not to look into the past.  today is today and Seth stepped up and took out the local favorite!  solid surfing and smart surfing.  right after the heat was done, the text messages stared flooding my phone.  first was from Tony saying “We’re going to finals day Kirb!”  my reply was “yes we are!”   we are so freaking happy!!!  also want to thank my friends around the world for the texts!  we’re all in this together!  this was Seth’s first big fish he speared when he was a kid.  he dreamt it, and he did it.  hey Seth, many more big fish to spear, and many more big pro surfers to beat!  your’e the man!!!i am totally bored!!!  nothing to do because i can’t go into the ocean yet.  watched movie after movie, took nap after nap, and even did some gardening today.  and when i get bored, i’m like a girl and think about shopping.  and ever since my eyes landed on this bike, i spent hours and hours looking for one.  don’t be surprised if you see me riding one tomorrow.  haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide